Downpour and thick clouds have consistently obscured the view of sunrise over Siem Reap for three consecutive days. Every morning I woke up to gloomy skies and cold weather that I lost the enthusiasm to see the much-anticipated sunrise in Angkor Wat. I let go of the mentality that I’d be battling with the crowd for the best spot to capture the sun as it casts its premature light over the grounds of Angkor.
On my last day in Siem Reap, the morning sun finally showed up. I felt its soothing warmth, but I was not in Angkor Wat on that momentous event. I was at the dining hall of my hotel, gorging a plateful of heavy breakfast and defending the miniscule thought of regret that was trying to enter my head.
Angkor Wat’s eastern portion is more laid back because of fewer tourists that come in here
As soon as I finished preparing everything I need for the ultimate tour, my driver Naran fetched me from my hotel. He had been staying outside the hotel since dawn, like what he normally does as part of his daily routine.
We took the back road to Angkor Wat, cutting through vibrant fields teeming with kids who were having their morning plunge in irrigation ponds whose waters come from the overflowed West Baray. Naran told me that he used to do the same thing when he was a kid, adding up that it is an essential part of childhood in Siem Reap’s rural facet.
The road I took on my initial visit to Angkor Wat; on the right side is the moat that encircles the vast complex
The cool morning breeze was an indication of a better weather throughout the day. The route we took was different but it was a little familiar as per my pre-trip online research—I saw Angkor Balloon, the one that offers hot air balloon experience for an exhilarating aerial view of the Angkor site.
Naran finally dropped me off at the parking area located across the road before the causeway to Angkor Wat. He then moved toward the food stalls to rest while I take my time wandering inside the complex. I put on my sunglasses, carried my tripod, and walked on foot towards the mighty temple.
Facing west, this is the causeway that links the road to the main gate. The body of water is the moat
Angkor Wat is the nucleus of Cambodia. It is the national symbol, the backbone of Khmer civilization, and the source of undying pride of its people. This staggering temple is heaven on Earth, a stunning site that one should visit in his lifetime. A unique combination of architecture and spirituality, Angkor Wat is the supreme epitome of Khmer genius.
For the record I have visited Angkor Wat twice during my 4-day vacation in Siem Reap: first was when I biked to the complex from the city proper, and second when I officially kicked off my Small Circuit tour on my final day. The latter is the slow-paced version and more meticulous than the first visit.
Beautiful columns and apsara carvings of Angkor Wat
Angkor Wat is surrounded by a 190 m-wide moat forming a giant rectangle measuring 1.5 km by 1.3 km. From the west, a sandstone causeway connects the moat to the main entrance.
The stone blocks from which Angkor Wat was built were quarried more than 50 km away (from Phnom Kulen) and floated down the Siem Reap River on rafts. The logistics of such operation are astonishing as it involved 300,000 workers and 6,000 elephants, yet Angkor Wat remained incomplete.
Impressive bas-reliefs and sturdy columns comprise the southern gallery
Upon entering the main gate I was presented with a stunning view of the inner complex. Tourists continuously walk about the two-way avenue—a 475m long stone causeway lined with naga (sea serpent) balustrades leading to the central temple. At the other end stands the divine Angkor Wat, proudly taking in all the praises the tourists utter.
View of Angkor Wat’s northern portion from the tier third
On the left side of the avenue several meters before the central temple is a small pond on which Angkor Wat reflects its grandeur. A short staircase branches out of the causeway to the grassland below, which is an area popular among tourists. I could picture out dozens, if not hundreds, of sunrise afficionados simultaneously clicking their cameras just to get the perfect angle of the peeking sun. It is Angkor Wat’s identity. And I missed that because of the sporadic morning weather.
Around the outside of the central temple is a long series of intricate bas-reliefs depicting epic events. I started my scrutiny in an anticlockwise manner from the west gallery towards the southern gallery. I ended at the eastern side of Angkor’s exterior before climbing the stairs to the second tier.
Tourists carefully ascent and descent the steep staircase to and from the summit
Angkor Wat is so charming and awe-inspiring. Somehow, tourists make the area a little chaotic, but the architecture of this temple is just beyond captivating. It is the right place to reflect, to relax, and to ponder upon. It is composed of three layers, with the uppermost giving an extensive view of the greenery—a serene spot to take a breather, to rest, or to read a book.
Tourists take rest at the second tier, most of them got tired exploring the top-most section
There’s a steep steel staircase that connects the second level to the third tier. Climbing to the top is controlled by temple officials, and they are very strict when it comes to proper attire particularly to the girls. Ladies are not allowed to go to the third tier when they are wearing mini skirts or anything that comes short and inappropriate that could be taken advantage by people ascending behind them. One female tourist was prohibited when she tried to conceal her sexy skirt with a big towel.
Apsara carvings at the summit; they are part of more than 3,000 apsara carvings distributed around Angkor Wat
Over 3,000 heavenly nymphs (apsara) are carved into the walls of Angkor Wat. These apsara carvings make up most of the reliefs that adorn the temple, together with well-preserved, intricate stone columns. At the third tier are heavenly carvings that enclose an inner courtyard.
The summit is one of the favorite spots in Angkor Wat. The cool breeze and the verdant views of the countryside make it a peaceful spot to contemplate the complexity of this unique architectural creation.
Inner courtyard of Angkor Wat’s uppermost tier
Angkor Wat is a quintessential item that must be on your bucket list. It is a beauty to behold, a masterpiece that is always available to be explored.
I tried to absorb everything that my eyes could see in the complex. I knew from the outset that a visit to Angkor Wat should be maximized up to the tiniest detail, but this temple is so enormous that a single tour of it will not cover everything.
A detailed pair of apsaras seen before I exit the central temple
For the second time, I turned my back to Angkor Wat as I have already accomplished my tour. Like what I did prior to entering the sacred temple, I put on my shades, carried my tripod, and walked towards the exit where my driver was waiting. I departed the temple more satisfied and happy; Angkor Wat has left a mark in my memory, which will not be easily erased.
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