Dieng Plateau, or simply Dieng, is a highland community in Central Java, Indonesia. Located 26km north of Wonosobo at a lofty altitude of 2,000 meters above sea level, Dieng is confined in a nippy mountainous setting possessing diverse natural features such as mysterious tranquil lakes, nauseating sulfuric volcanoes, and eerie mossy forests. Dieng Plateau is also home to some of the oldest Hindu architecture in Java.
The volcanic plateau of Dieng is comprised of smaller villages: business establishments are concentrated on Dieng village; homestays, warungs (small eateries), and grocery stores are mostly found by the main road. Dieng village is also the usual starting point of excursions to all attractions within the vicinity.
Dieng Plateau’s highland climate is one of the big reasons why I went there
I rarely experience the kind of climate Dieng Plateau has. As a matter of fact, the effect of the mountain breeze was beyond what I anticipated, add up the intense, heater-less morning showers I transcended. Dieng Plateau’s chilling clime is one of the primary reasons why I considered traveling to this place. In addition, the primary tourist spots are close to each other, making them easily navigable by foot!
My walking tour started around 6 AM, right after I battled with the frigid water at Dieng Plateau homestay. It was the rainy season so the temperature of water was very low. Mists had consistently cloaked the village, causing the temperature to drop further. Good thing I had with me a hooded waterproof jacket; I was carefree walking around despite the intermittent rain showers and teeth-chattering cold.
Gloomy morning at Telaga Warna (Colored Lake)
If you are staying at Dieng Plateau Homestay, you need to walk westward to reach Telaga Warna (Colored Lake). Along the way you could ask villagers for directions. Here’s what I did: I asked one lady outside her home and she told me to just follow the main road. I heeded her instruction and moved forward; minutes later, that same lady appeared, on a scooter, and offered me a free ride to Telaga Warna. Awesome.
The lady even spared me some money by providing a helpful tip. She told me that had I walked further, an officer on duty at the outpost will collect an admission fee of IDR 20,000 / USD 1.65 that covers access to Arjuna Complex and unguarded sights, but not those attractions that have their own admission fees. Because I was on the scooter, the guard didn’t bother to ask when we crossed the checkpoint. My money was salvaged.
Telaga Warna’s tranquil water looks very mysterious
Telaga Warna (admission: IDR 4,000 for Indonesians / IDR 15,000 for foreigners) is part of the main tourist circuit and can be easily reached by foot or by ojek from Dieng village. The turquoise water of the charming lake is surrounded by highland mountains and dense forests. Telaga Warna is adjoined to another lake, Telaga Pengilon (Mirror Lake), and it is said that the majestic colors of these lakes are emphasized when the day is clear and sunny.
When you reach Telaga Warna, the ticket collector may offer you a tour around the twin lakes for a fee. I declined because I had to finish my walking tour in just 15 minutes so I ventured towards the towering trees dotted by the lakes and braved the serenity of the forest.
The seemingly-alive golden statue of Mahapatih Gajah Mada inside the forest at Telaga Warna
Fear struck me when I realized I was the only person walking in the middle of towering trees, below the murky skies. Because of it I accelerated my pace and ignored the slightly-puddled, slippery trail. I had to get out soon. There at the heart of the forest was the golden statue of Mahapatih Gajah Mada and behind it is a creepy cavernous rock. What have I gotten myself into? I should have brought a tour guide!
The more I wanted to find a quick escape, the more I glanced back to check if I was being followed by the statue. Anyhow all my senses had been awakened by that extra-ordinary morning warm-up. If you think you can’t venture to the forest alone in the early morn, better pay for a tour guide.
Telaga Warna looks dreary in rainy season but its enchanting charm stays the same
To proceed to Kawah Sikidang from the main road outside Telaga Warna, head straight and turn right at the first junction. Upon reaching another intersection, turn left and you will see the arch gate of Kawah Sikidang (Sikidang Crater).
To cross the gate of Sikidang you have to pay another admission fee. Luckily, I arrived at the gate before 8 AM so there was no personnel on duty at the ticket counter yet. Free entry.
Almost zero visibility at Kawah Sikidang (Sikidang Crater)
The distance from the gate down to the crater is about 1km. For the first time I did not walk by myself: I met an old lady before my approach to the gate and I learned that she was also headed for Sikidang. We did not converse with each other because of the language barrier, but hand and facial gestures did the job. She courteously led the way.
You will know when you’re nearing the crater when the road becomes obscure and the nasty smell of sulfur could be perceived. The smell is too strong: you might consider bringing a mask to reduce the irritation. I bought mine for IDR 3,000 from a vendor at Kawah Sikidang.
The fuzzy image was caused by a mixture of mist and volcanic emission
Kawah Sikidang is gorgeous in dry season, at least for Google Images. Unfortunately, fog had fully enveloped the area when I was there, therefore, I wasn’t able to fully appreciate the landscape hidden behind the fog.
You can actually walk near the crater and see the steaming vents up-close. Just be careful when the sight is partially visible as you may fall into the bubbling mud ponds without being noticed by anyone.
At first I only heard voices. Then these figures appeared
Arjuna Complex is accessible by foot from Kawah Sikidang: from the crater, go back to the main gate and shift left at the junction until you reach a hamlet; continue your way uphill to Arjuna and you will easily spot Candi Gatotkaca on the right side of the road; the entrance to Arjuna is just few steps from there.
Candi Gatotkaca is a small Shiva temple south of the main complex
I don’t know their names, but yes, they are flowers!
Outside Arjuna Complex are food stalls, flower stands, and stores where you can eat or buy souvenirs. These establishments are strategically located by the main circuit, making them a quick stop of famished tourists—specifically those on walking tour—like me.
Street grub outside Arjuna Complex. Clockwise from upper left: Tempe being fried; fresh potato fries in the wok; fried mushrooms; fried tempe
A ticket collector normally sits at the entrance of Arjuna Complex to check gate passes from incoming tourists. If you don’t have your Dieng pass yet, you can buy it from him spot-on. Tourists coming from the direction of Telaga Warna and Kawah Sikidang are usually not questioned as they are presumed to have acquired their tickets from the checkpoint before Telaga Warna.
Because I unintentionally skipped that checkpoint before approaching Telaga Warna, I did not have any valid ticket with me. Fortunately, the guard only asked me if I already came from Sikidang; no other questions raised, hence I was granted free access. :)
These are the small Shiva temples forming Arjuna Complex, clustered on the central plain
There are five Shiva temples on the central plain of Arjuna Complex: Arjuna, Puntadewa, Semar, Srikandi, and Sembadra; these temples are named after the heroes in the Mahabharata epic. They might be underwhelming in size, but they have historical significance to Javanese architecture. Some locals also meditate, pray, and leave offerings here.
Candi Puntadewa is one of the big stone structures in the complex, together with Candi Arjuna
Candi Puntadewa
Candi Arjuna’s tiered roof is the temple’s most noticeable feature
Candi Semar looks like a mausoleum
Would you believe that this one is a “stolen” shot?
A vendor walks on the pathway leading to the entrance/exit
Small serving of hot Bakso for IDR 8,000 at a warung outside Arjuna Complex
Arjuna Complex offers a diverse view of Dieng Village, from highland mountains on one side to luxuriant vegetation on the other. Here you can get a grasp of what it’s like to live in the village; you will see locals tending their own farm, others transport goods. For added experience, you can also go to the nearby Kailasa Dieng Museum to trace back old religious items that are of great importance to Dieng’s early civilization.
Kailasa Dieng Museum displays religious objects tracing back to ancient Javanese Hindu civilization
Carica (IDR 7,000) is a must-try traditional food in Dieng Plateau. It is a naturally-sweetened papaya put in a plastic container. Price varies depending on size
Arjuna is about 2/3 of the way on the main Dieng circuit. To complete this loop I walked for about 1km from Arjuna Complex to Dieng village and I arrived at Dieng Plateau Homestay before 10 AM, just in time for my check-out.
Homestays are common in Dieng village. You will find them near the main road
The important sites at Dieng Plateau, particularly those that are in proximity to Dieng village, can be visited in less than one day. You can even accomplish a day trip from Yogyakarta as long as you start your Magelang-Wonosobo-Dieng connection early. In my case as a homestay guest, I finished the Dieng loop within 3 hours, by foot.
Sunrise tours are also ran by independent ojek drivers around Dieng. Homestays offer this to their guests and the tour starts at around 4 AM. To reach the distant tourist attractions you would need to hire an ojek driver.
On the bus on our descent to Wonosobo
How to get there
Wonosobo is the usual gateway to Dieng Plateau. Minibuses frequently leave Wonosobo for Dieng (IDR 10,000 / USD 0.82) with the last bus departing Wonosobo at 5 PM. Travel time is approximately one hour.
You can also get to Dieng Plateau from Yogyakarta. From Jombor terminal, take a public bus to Magelang (IDR 10,000, one hour), then from Magelang, ride another bus to Wonosobo (IDR 20,000, 2 1/2 hrs). Make sure to start your journey early.
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